Vanuatu Part 1

<body topmargin=0 leftmargin=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0><tr> <td valign="top" colspan=2 height=90 BGCOLOR="#006699" TEXT="#080000" background="1ccd05a3.jpg"> <div> <FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>DRUMBEAT</B></FONT><B>    </B><B> |     </B><A HREF="index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="DRUMBEAT"><B>home</B></A></div> <div> back to  <A HREF="id94.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Voyages"><B>Voyages</B></A></div> <div> </div> </td> </tr><tr> <td valign="top" width=210 BGCOLOR="#FFCC66" TEXT="#080000" background="1cdd2123.jpg"> <div> <A HREF="id386.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Vanuatu 2007">Vanuatu 2007</A></div> <div> <B>Vanuatu Part 1</B></div> <div> <A HREF="id383.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Vanuatu Part 2">Vanuatu Part 2</A></div> <div> <A HREF="id387.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Vanuatu Part 3">Vanuatu Part 3</A></div> <div> <A HREF="id385.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Vanuatu Part 4">Vanuatu Part 4</A></div> <div> <A HREF="id388.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Vanuatu Part 5">Vanuatu Part 5</A></div> <div> <A HREF="id389.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Vanuatu Part 6">Vanuatu Part 6</A></div> <bR> <bR> </td> <td valign="top" height=390 width="100%" BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF" TEXT="#080000"> <div> <B>Vanuatu </B><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>(by Brian)</B></FONT></div> <bR> <div> <B>Sailing from Southport to New Caledonia </B></div> <div> <IMG SRC="c848ae80.jpg" border=0 width="650" height="488" ALT="Clearing Customs at Southport" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="20" VSPACE="20"></div> <div> We cleared customs on board Drumbeat on Wednesday 30th May 2007, along with Another Angel. This was relatively painless, and the Customs officers were easy to get along with and very helpful for us first timers.  We then refuelled the boat while the girls did some last minute provisioning.  Another Angel got away at about 2pm, and we followed a little later, leaving the Gold Coast Seaway at 4:10 pm in light 8 knot northerlies.  We ran with the drifter and full main, giving us 5-6 knots.  The winds continued to be be light northerlies for the first 24 hours, but we didn't use the motors for assistance and managed 190 miles.  The second night however, the breeze died out and we motor sailed and sailed spasmotically, covering 148 miles for the second days run. Another Angel used their motor a little more than we did, and had caught up enough to be in VHF range.</div> <bR> <div> Friday afternoon, the wind consolidated to 9-11 knots from the SE, which saw us doing 9-10 kot averages.  We soon left Another Angel behind, as the easterly swell slowed them more than it did us. There was a full moon and clear skies, making for some beautiful night sailing.  Each night several flying fish would land on the deck, however we never ate any, as they were a bit glassy-eyed by the time we found them.   We saw our first ship today. Damo had been sick a couple of times, but we changed his medication to Phenergan, and he was fine for the rest of the trip.  We gave him a new Sony PSP just before we left, and he gave it a fair old work-out on the trip across. </div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div>                                                                                            <IMG SRC="c8a8aa10.jpg" border=0 width="650" height="417" ALT="South Bellona Reef" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="20" VSPACE="20"></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> Our aim was to sail to South Bellona Reef, part of the Chesterfield Reef complex which belongs to New Caledonia (France), for some snorkelling and spearfishing.  The northerly breezes kept us south though, so we abandoned that plan, and basically kept sailing at a comfortable and fast angle, using the drifter as it has a steadying effect on the boat, and usually does wind speed less a knot or two.  On our current course, we were headed for the south end of New Caledonia, however we expected the wind to swing to the east, which would make that course difficult.  That is what happened, so we eventually made for the top end of New Caledonia, which has a barrier reef, and many islands.  </div> <bR> <div> Day 3 we did 246 miles, in 10-14 knot SE breezes, generally close reaching to beam reaching.  By this time Another Angel was 104 miles astern, with a few 'water' related problems. First, they left a hatch open in the galley, and a wave came over, dumping a few bucket loads onto them.  Then they discoverd a hatch had been left ajar, filling a forward locker to the top with a couple of tonnes of water.  They discovered this at about 2am, and had a fun time bailing that out.  Then to cap it off, a wave came over the top, and water came through a small solar powered vent, straight onto Brian's laptop which was running on the saloon table below it.  That was the last time that computer will ever work!  </div> <bR> <div> Day 4 saw the wind swing east, and we furled the drifter in favour of the headsail for better pointing, however as we closed New Caledonia we were able to use the drifter again, and covered 252 miles for the 24 hour period.  We entered the pass into the reef as the sun set, and anchored behind Isle Neba for a good nights sleep.</div> <bR> <div>                                                                   <IMG SRC="c85e88a0.jpg" border=0 width="488" height="650" ALT="Drumbeat sailing in light airs" ALIGN="RIGHT" HSPACE="20" VSPACE="20"></div> <div> <B>New Caledonia to Port Vila</B></div> <bR> <div> At 5am, after a good sleep, we raised anchor from Isle Neba, and motor sailed through the lagoon, over the top of New Caledonia, and down the west coast.  It was an interesting distracton to view the topography of New Caledonia and the small  villages and buildings dotted along the coast.  The binoculars were never put down!  The terrain on the NW coast is very dry and rugged, however the brilliant colours of the lagoon and reefs provided an amazing contrast.  We had our lures hammered a couple of times, losing 2 that morning with not a scale to show for it.  Score now stands at Fish - 3, Fishermen - 0.  We have certainly had our appetite wet for a cruise through New Caledonian waters.</div> <bR> <div> <B><IMG SRC="c8c8ae70.jpg" border=0 width="650" height="487" ALT="New Caledonia's Lagoon & rugged terrain" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="20" VSPACE="20"> </B></div> <div> At 11am we left the lagoon via Passe de Balade, having motor sailed 57 miles since 5am.  We headed out into 16 knot E/SE winds, which allowed us to just hold our rhumb line of 56 degrees true, close hauled, whilst maintaining boat speed of 10 knots.  As darkness filled the sky, we were abeam of Astrolabe Reefs, to windward.  This caused the swells to wrap around, and come at us from both directions.  Add some current, being close hauled and we pretty much are sailing like a pair of mill workers King Gees on the inside of a washing machine working on the heavy duty cycle.  Fortunately we never reached the spin cycle, but had plenty of rinse without the benefit of 'Cuddly Soft' added.  Round about now the breeze picks up to 17-19 knots and swings further to the east, the first reef goes into the main, boat speed drops back to 8 knots and we are falling off the rhumb line, with no safety net.  I go below, and Linda mumbles something which I don't quite hear, but fully understand....After a pleasant 15 minute cat-nap, I feel it getting rougher...Linda mumbles something else, so I go back up to see how Rob is going.  We decide to its time to put the second reef in the main, but not before the first reef line breaks....</div> <bR> <div> About midnight the wind veered back to the SE, and by 2am on cheery Tuesday we are back on our self appointed rhumb line, still clawing to windward, and by dawn we are able to ease the sheets and run in the 15 knot winds towards our destination. At he 24 hour mark since leaving the pass we have eaten 223 of our 320  crap cookies, but are feeling pretty good.  It seems I am the only one on board able to handle the galley in the washing machine, so it is a big pot of pasta for lunch which is gulped down by all, and kept by most.  </div> <bR> <div> We sailed into Mele Bay as the sun set, and entered Port Vila in the darkness of 5pm EST.  just in time to reset our watches forward one hour and catch the last of happy hour.  It is quite daunting entering the harbour of a capital city in darkness, not knowing any more than the features shown on a chart...how much traffic will be moving about; where can we anchor; will there be room for us near the quarantine buoy ....most of these questions are duly answered by the radar, and in this case its as easy as.....plenty of room, no traffic to speak of.....we drop the anchor in 15m of water near several other boats gathered around the quarantine buoy and savour the smells and sounds of ort Vila....the smoke of a thousand camp fires, not a lot of noise, until 4am when some idiot starts singing acapella Arabic into a microphone with a cheap set of speakers.....must be Rhumbadamn, Papadum or something, because it happens every morning except Sunday (hoping the infidels will sleep in and miss church, methinks)   Its not like we needed the sleep or anything, its just the tune....after a week of it we are humming along....does that constitute conversion???</div> <bR> <div> For the first time on Drumbeat we fly our yellow handkerchief, and at 10am the quarantine Officers show up.  Now we are not sure what to declare and what not to, so we fill out the forms and declare a few things, includng a dozen meatballs and half a suspect chicken loaf.  They don't check anything, and let us know that for 1,000 vatu ($12AUD) we can keep the meat....hmmmm....does cash kill the hidden bugs????  We let them know that they "can have it anyway, as our freezer thawed out on the way over".....not exactly true, but we didn't want them to know how bad chicken loaf can get.....there was a good reason why it was still incarcerated in the culture cabinet.....The guys were really friendly, and really no problem at all, pointing us in the general direction of Customs (a 2km dinghy ride) and Immigration.  I went to both departments and had the passports stamped and we were free to venture ashore.....</div> <bR> <div> The 1100 mile trip took a bit over 6 days, with an over-night stop included, and was generally great sailing.  The two other boats which left with us took a little longer - Another Angel took 13 days, but sat out the stronger winds which closed in behind us in New Caledonia for several days, and McDiver took over 11 sailing days to get to Noumea in New Caledonia.....</div> <bR> <div> <B>Bumming Around Port Vila</B></div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="c8d8ae80.jpg" border=0 width="650" height="488" ALT="Port Vila Markets. Trevor, Brian & Haley haggling with the Ni-vans over something we have never seen before..." ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="20" VSPACE="20"></div> <bR> <bR> <div> Annette & Barb weren't due to fly in until Saturday, so we spent the rest of the week getting to know Port Vila.  I got to know the starboard engine a little better, as it developed a nasty screeching noise as we motored the last bit into the harbour anchorage.  I never found out exactly what it was, but it seemed to eminate from the gear-box end of things, and dissappeared after about a week, but not before plenty of calls to Australia.  </div> <div>                     </div> <bR> <div> The markets at Port Vila were usually well stocked with food we had never seen before, but not so well stocked with familiar fare.  Prices were cheap compared to Australia for fresh produce which is in season.</div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> Rob revelled in market shopping, and kept us well stocked with fresh goodies.                                                                 Drumbeat in the crowded anchorage at Port Vila, off the 'Nambawan Cafe'.</div> <div>                                                                            <IMG SRC="c928ae80.jpg" border=0 width="650" height="488" ALT="Rob preparing the delights of the Vila Market" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="20" VSPACE="20"></div> <div> <IMG SRC="c908ae80.jpg" border=0 width="650" height="488" ALT="Drumbeat at Port Villa" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="20" VSPACE="20">    </div> <div> In Port Vila, there is a small community of live aboard yachties, who organise a weekly social outing during the cruising season.</div> <div> While we were there, Luke & ??? off 'Sloup Mouche' organised an excursion to a spot on the outskirts of Vila where a community form the island of </div> <div> Tanna had prepared a cultural evening.  We all boarded a couple of buses, and were taken out, arriving just after dark, to a small clearing in their village</div> <div> where were enterained with traditional dancing, and a meal of vegagtables and meat cooked in leaves, and buried in hot stones.  Centre photo is Linda take off the rocks.  </div> <div> For some reason I wasn't allowed to help, though I did ask nicely.  Strange customs......</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="c94c2520.jpg" border=0 width="450" height="338" ALT="Uncovering the hot rock oven" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">    <IMG SRC="c965ed30.jpg" border=0 width="350" height="467" ALT="Linda uses a set of BBQ tongs to remove hot rocks" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">    <IMG SRC="c98c2520.jpg" border=0 width="450" height="338" ALT="The banquet" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="c9ac2520.jpg" border=0 width="450" height="338" ALT="Haley, Damon and Cameron with the 5 boys from the dance night" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="50" VSPACE="50">  </div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> During the evening, some of the boys made it clear that they would like to visit our boat.  Rob suggested that they would need to ask 'Captain Brian', much to everyones mirth.  Captain Brian obliged, and next day 5 of the boys came down to the waters edge and we collected them in the dingy.  They had a great time messing about on canoes, and fishing, and we enjoyed their company as well.</div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="cac8ae80.jpg" border=0 width="650" height="488" ALT="Sunset @ Havannah Harbour" ALIGN="RIGHT" HSPACE="50" VSPACE="50"></div> <bR> <bR> <div> Linda's sister (Trevors wife) Annette, and Barb (Rob's wife) arrived on the Saturday flight from Brisbane.  We spent another day in Vila and then sailed around the north-west coast of Efate to Havannah Harbour where we spent a few days.</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="c9ec2520.jpg" border=0 width="450" height="338" ALT="Annette & Linda trading..." ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="50" VSPACE="50"></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> Our first taste of life away from Port Vila.  Friendly, mostly shy peiople who live simple lives without the 'necessities' we work our butts off for....</div> <bR> <div> Their life consists of subsistence gardening, family (generally making it bigger - LOTS of kids!!), and village life.  Most of the small villages are extended family units.</div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="ca0c2520.jpg" border=0 width="450" height="338" ALT="On the beach at Lelepa Island" ALIGN="RIGHT" HSPACE="50" VSPACE="50"></div> <bR> <bR> <div>     </div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="ca2c2580.jpg" border=0 width="450" height="600" ALT="Small (unnattended) resort on Lelepa Island" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="50" VSPACE="50"></div> <bR> <div>                                                     </div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> The small 'resort' on Lelepa Island.  The anchorage is delightful here, a small enclosed lagoon with reef all around.  The resort is used on an 'as required' basis.  A few visitors dropped in during the day by 'banana boat'.  Pretty laid back.  </div> <bR> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="ca4c2520.jpg" border=0 width="450" height="338" ALT="Resort on Leleps Island" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="50" VSPACE="50"></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="ca6c2520.jpg" border=0 width="450" height="338" ALT="Mele Village, Efate" ALIGN="RIGHT" HSPACE="50" VSPACE="0">We stopped at Mele Village on the way back to Port Vila from Havannah Harbour.  It is the largest village in Vanuatu, and is populated by Ni-Vans only.  The children would run out and give us flowers, or in this case a colourful leaf.....little charmers!!</div> <bR> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="ca8c2520.jpg" border=0 width="450" height="338" ALIGN="LEFT" HSPACE="50" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> Meal time on Drumbeat.</div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="caac2520.jpg" border=0 width="450" height="338" ALT="Road side Market - north end Efate" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="50">On Sunday we hired a bus with driver, and travelled all the way around Efate which was one of the highlights of our stay in Port Vila.  On Monday we farewelled the crew, who flew back to Australia leaving us feeling alone...</div> <bR> </td> </tr></table></body>